The EVIL TWIN Engine Dragster Build

[Rocky Phillips]

I need all my Eagle Field Family's VOTES for the Evil Twin and I are in the Always A champion Sweepstakes, Vote once daily until Feb 5th! Thank You, Rocky
contest.alwaysachampion.com/contests/showentry/1007448


Here's my Twin Engine Dragster Build I put together to enjoy at Eagle Field. This is copied from a Build Thread on another board and I started last year. Rocky

I'm gonna dive into a project I've wanted to do for a while!
As far back as talking to Eddie Hill in the early 90's I've had this build in the back of my head




My original plan was to try to be NHRA Legal by using 2 approved bellhousings, but with Eagle Field happening I'm going the more economical route.


The build is going to use 2 small block Chevy's side by side with the flywheels (having 2 ring gears installed and pinned on each) will be mated directly together much like this but with both my engines facing forward.


One engine will be reverse rotation which is a hurdle I solved by aquiring an old Chris Craft Cam and drive......


I positioned 2 engines side by side on the ground.........


And determined that I'll use 168t flywheels with one covered by a Mercruiser bellhousing and the standard rotation engine which will carry the clutch (direct drive) using a scattershield.


The car will use a narrow pair of Hurst Hot Rod Rubber to get the direct drive car off the line in a plume of smoke I hope:D


I have visions of this wheel and tire combo on the rear but with finances being what they are I'll probably use some Chrome reverse wheels I have.


Up front I'll use my Harley Davidson 16" wheels that currently reside on the front of our HA/GR.

All of this will have a basic 3x2 frame design
With a Large Radius 5 point cage simular to the old Dragmaster chassis'

More to come as I'd like to to have the car on display if not running by May 21st! Rocky

Cars were built using this method in the day (Flywheel to Flywheel) and the Dragmaster Two Thing uses this method also, although they are using flexplates I believe. My plan is to use Certified Flywheels for strength and as far as "Engine Balance" there have been different engines tied together with success. The twin pumkin idea would have had the 2 carriers tied together using the axles. One axle into one side of one spool and the other axle would go thru its spool and into the the remainig side of the other. The long axle would have splines at the end and in the middle, axles would be pretty costly and with 2 of everything pretty heavy. So I'm going with the one pumkin idea, If nothing else we'll find out together:D
As far as the chassis goes it's going to be a short car, a Kieth Tardel chassis would be the ticket but I have the material to build a 120" wheelbase and with the engines set way back (no trans) it should look really cool, plus I'm not trying to do a tribute car. The intake system is a biggy, ultimately (2 sets of) tubes is what I want, that will be a hold up.
All I know is I can't wait to see what happens when I drop the hammer on this beast:D

I've been looking at these style cars for a while and researched many sites including

twotogo.homestead.com/TwoToGoPageTwo.html

plus Ivo ran this setup
www.standard1320.com/Ivo/Buicks/TwinBuick/TwinBuick.html
in his twin gas dragster which I believe was pretty succesfull or he at least drove the shit out of it!

[Rocky Phillips]

The Flywheels will be machined for 2 ring gears each in the future if reguired, I'm leaning toward the Fuller style Cage used on Ivo if for no other reason it looks right. Starting may be an issue although I hope a good gear reduction starter will start the 2 engines.

I got the fever bad! A couple of drawings, one off my desk pad at work:D:D

MY OPINION is there is not as much stress on the teeth as one would be believe, the engines are working together. Now if 1 engine locked up, well, then I presume you'd see some teeth failure. If you have worked on a manual transmission you know how small the syncro teeth are and they carry all the load to the driveline and I've "crashed boxed" em (ground every other tooth off) and they stiil survive:D
OK, here's a beginning list of parts I need, the list will grow I'm sure and before you shoot an PM let me say moneys tight, here's the list, if you think you can help let me know
1) T-Bucket body, plans are to use a Turtle Deck. I hope to build the car as a Modified Roadster.
2) 2 sets of SB Chevy Header Flanges
3) Small steering box like a VW
4) 168 Tooth SB Chevy Flywheels, Aluminum prefered and must have been a race cert flywheel, current cert not required.
5) 8.5 x 28 x 15 Pie Crust slicks and I plan on hopefully roasting them.
6) 3x2 Offy, Edelbrock or ? SB Chevy Intake
7) Direct Drive "Candle Stick" or input to rearend shaft
8) 11" Certed Clutch & Pressure plate
9) Hydraulic Throw Out Brg and Master Cyl
10) 9" ford 4:ll gears

[Rocky Phillips]

Heres some of my inspiration


after mocking it up and maybe firing it the reverse engine will be torn down and the crank will be ground with the rotation in mind and the journals chamfered, A long time ago an engine machinist explained to me that a crankshaft must be polished with the crank rotation in mind so the microscopic edges don't eat the bearings, made sense. Now on with the build, I had plans of beginning the engine plate layout but work got in the way. However the weekend wasn't lost, I picked up a "T" body with a Turtle deck, virgin and ready for some modifications:D


Hopefully soon I can get the 2 engines together and see what frame width will be required. I'm also looking for recommendations on covering the drivers area with fiberglass. Anybody done it?
Well I finally got to work on the project this afternoon and started geting the engines ready for layout. I removed everything off the front of the engines and cleaned the machined surfaces so when I set them on a flat surface the back of the engines should be straight also.


After flipping the engines I encountered my first obstical, I had to cut the starter mounting off the LH engine to get the flywheels to mesh.
The block I'm using is an junk block, so out came the sawsall.

Once I cut the block the flywheels matched great and now I can get started on my engine plate pattern.
I spoke with George @ Clay Smith Cams today and the OE Cam is on its way for a regrind, hopefully something about 240-250 @ .050 duration, about .500 lift in a Hydraulic grind. The goal is to have the engines ready to fire for the Eagle Field Christmas Party (Date to Be announced). The remainder of parts for my wifes C/GD legal 292" Dragster Engine are on the way and I plan on mating the 350 that is currently in her car with a 307:eek: I aquired. A 657 CI "BABY" will make "POPPA" happy.
I had thought about the vinyl cover but figured the 'glass would add some strenght to the body. Today a friend told me about "Starched" fiberglass, said he could get me what I need for free, anybody know about this stuff? Found some wheels and tires and they are on there way! Was going to go with Hurst tires but found these and snapped them up

and from the beginning I've wanted 5 Spokes.

After a little thought of transfering the bolt pattern to a tempate I decided to use Set Screws put in the block backwards....

So after cutting out a piece of scrap aluminum, removing the dowels and positioning the set screws just above the block surface I positioned my template and placed a flat punch on the template over the set set screws and struck it with a hammer...........

The method worked great and although probably not perfectly centered this will get me to my next step of making a "Master Pattern" out of steel with holes deep enough to use a transfer punch.....

[Rocky Phillips]

I found a piece of 3/8" steel plate today at work and cut the holes for the crankshafts. At first was planning on using this to make a pattern to use with a transfer punch with and then I tought I just need a "GIZMO" to hold the transfer punch centered an just use the aluminum template I made........

Clamped my first pattern to the 3/8 steel and proceeded to use the gizmo I made to transfer the pattern..........

Worked real well as I drilled all the holes 3/8" and all the bolts lined up....

Although heavy I'm going to use the 3/8 for know or forever and just trim it as necessary and lighten it with some holes:D
With the plate as strong as it is I decided to flip it over and get a look at it.......


I'm pretty happy and found the intake angle at 28 degrees if I'm reading it correctly.....

Now on to the front mount, cut the starter hole, thens it's time to get the engines ready for FIRE and chase it around on the floor:D
Got the front engine plate roughed out and with everything tightened up I have .055 clearence between the teeth. I haven't drilled the Dowel Holes in the plate and the holes are dead on so I could drill one engines mounting holes out to 7/16 and move the engines together another .030 before the dowel holes are drilled. I dunno, time and some stripped teeth will tell:D



OK, while working on our other car I slapped a couple heads on and double checked the clearence between the heads and I'm sure I have enough clearence;)

I agree and plan on using the 10 Degree seperation. I moved the engines closer together and may machine just a bit off the Ring Gear teeth as the teeth are almost bottomed out when I have the lash I'm happy with.
Originally I was going to to a 3x2 frame rails but after looking at the engine layout I'm gonna use 1 3/4 Rd Tube and use the engine as a stress member. I may even weld the rear plate in the car as the rear and front lower tubes connect at this point with the front lower tubes being 21" O/S to O/S and the rear being 27" O/S to O/S.
OK I installed the cam and drive (that little tube of Moly is JJJJJUst enough:D & it took me for ever to find and fit the damn Half Moon Key) and everything seems to be right although I need to double check the firing order as I tired and was getting hipnotized watching the damn lifters go up & down. Anyway the intake and exhaust valve timing seem right and I'll get some rest and check it again tomorrow! Here's the sacrificial 307 with the cam installed.

Well we have a winner, with a little rest I checked the firing order and came up with 12756348. I'm going out tonight to see where the cam is set and start on the heads Tim did for me, man he did a nice 3 angle job, Thanks Again Tim! Photo's at 11:D
The main bearings will take a beating I'm sure so I took a picture of the 307's bearings for reference to check after I break in the cam......

The heads I'm using will help in the compression and torque department of the Twin, nothing fancy for now, besides a McTim 3 angle valve job.....

59CC 1.840 Intake 1.500 Exhaust 305 CI heads
No photos but the cam is right on, with the piston at TDC on overlap (both lifters up) the intake lifter is about .030 higher than the exhaust, good enough check (on a single pattern cam) for me and I'm looking forward to "Fire in the Holes" this weekend!
OK fellow HAMB Brothers and Sisters I captured some video this morning! Standing over the flywheels was on my mind and this video being on a "They Survived" reality show was a thought:D

[lancer]

Enjoying the build thread Rocky.

[Rocky Phillips]

Dec 25, 2011 13:41:41 GMT -5 lancer said:

Enjoying the build thread Rocky.

Thanks Lance, as the build goes you'll see how things will change. Rocky

[Rocky Phillips]

Tonight I started on the intake flanges with 1/4" x 2 1/2" Steel Plate and transfered the holes from an intake gasket......


Drilled out the pilots and checked the fit..............

You can see the corners of the intake ports thru the holes........

My first 2 runner tubes came out a little short but no problem, more where that came from. The material is 3" x 2" by about .065 wall and I don't plan on dividing the runners at this time, much like the old Crietz intakes. If it's a problem I can add a divider in the runners later..........

My plan is to have all the piece ready by next week for Carl's Logs, it'll be nice to have carbs that the engines can run on for a while.
I picked up some more 1/4" x 2 1/2" Flat Bar and used an 1 3/4" Hole saw and got the flanges made for the inside hedders. It's tight and I'm glad I didn't guess at putting the engines any closer..............

But we have 8 UP and 8 OUT finally..........


The Drivers view..........

I think I'll have to start it again before Christmas:D
With the logs done and on their way I finished cutting the runners and the flanges for the cylinder heads. I drew this up to help anyone who might want to build their own intake, I also found that the 2 center bolts on intake gaskets are no longer in line with the others. Apparently the gasket manufactures raised the center holes to make the gaskets universal to also fit Vortec heads so keep that in mind when using gaskets as a pattern. The last change I'd do if I were doing it again is mark my 3" hole saw center at 6 3/8" to give me some material to fit the log, I checked it with the hole saw simulating a 3" log, looks good and we'll see how it fits this week.

[Rocky Phillips]

As of 1/4/2011
SPECIAL DELIVERY today.....................


There gonna be up there and maybe not the best technology but they are mine (& Carls) and I LOVE IT! People are gonna really be scratching their heads;
I just have to decide if I'm gonna braze or gas weld with steel, I'm leaning toward Brazing because I believe there wont be as much heat.

Log cut-out................

Fitted, tacked and ready to weld.................

The fit turned out pretty well, hmmmmmmmm maybe a call to Lee is in order:rolleyes:
And yes the COLD weather has slowed me down but fear not, we are shooting for MAY;)
After tacking the intake together I tried it on the engines, Damn I'm happy!

I'm sure that my manifold would benefit from but this is 1960 and I don't know them yet:D
Seriously I'm gonna run it and see what the outcome is, I would like and plan on more compression (currently around 9 and 10 to 1) but it will run pretty much a WOT and driveability (I can't even spell it) is not a consideration plus the Carb CFM is really small. We'll find out. Rocky
FYI I thought I'd mention the cam specs on my reground OE REV Engine rotation cam I had ground by Clay Smith. George ground the cam to 231* @ .050 with .480 lift, not much bigger than a mild street cam but I'm not trying to set any records and it is close to the cam in the other engine
The tuning on this monstracity will have to be all at once:D shouldn't be a problem as long as I get all the basics dialed in to begin with.
I spread all my stromberg pieces out and between what I had and Carl's 3 I wont need much but man thats alot of small pieces to clean.
Hopefully I'll tack the LH manifold together tomorrow night as I had to cut the RH manifold apart and changed the angle a couple degrees due to being unable to see.
I've been posting on BangShift.com and Brian posted a bit of the build on the main page and recieved some pretty good interest, now it's gotta be done by May;) No looking back NOW:D

While doing research on my Strombergs I found this info (http://www.reds-headers.com/html/red_s_engine_talk_10.html) which helps a person understand the '97 a little better..............

Red Hamilton's guest writer for this column is, Paul Garrigan (also known as "Rumbleseat")
The following fuel and carburetor article was written by Paul originally to assist members of the MSN Flathead List. It is posted on the Flathead Ford Techno-Source site managed by Bill Bentley. We would like to thank both of them for their support of Flathead Ford fans everywhere.
Fuel Pumps
Flathead Ford stock fuel pump pressure is 3- 1/2 psi. The fuel pump pressure can be adjusted by adding or subtracting fuel pump stand gaskets. The gaskets we get in engine gasket sets are quite thin (about 0.010" thick), and we only get one.
What I use are 8BA thermostat housing gaskets to adjust the fuel pump stand height and decrease the pressure to the 3 1/2 psi that I want. They are only slightly larger, but are considerably thicker. On my '34, I have to use two of them to get my new Carter fuel pump pressure down to 3 1/2 psi from the 4 1/2 psi it had originally.
Just because the fuel pressure is within specifications does not mean the fuel pump is good. It can have good pressure but not pump enough volume. It has to pump at least one pint of gas within 30 seconds with the engine running between 500 and 600 rpm.
Fuel pump push rods are supposed to be replaced when wear exceeds 0.010-inch. The new dimensions of the rods are 7 7/8 - inch, 8 7/8- inch or 10 1/16- inch. If wear exceeds 0.010- inch, the pressure/ volume may be insufficient to feed the engine when asked to run flat out, or during a hot summer day. Watch the amount of chamfer on the cam end to determine when push rod is worn out.
Ford, Holley, and Stromberg carburetors were designed to run on 2 1/2 psi fuel pump pressure, not the 3 1/2 and 4 1/2 psi the stock mechanical fuel pump is supposed to deliver. Why Henry made a fuel pump that puts out more pressure than the carb can withstand is beyond me.
I use an adjustable type fuel pressure regulator located between the stock fuel pump and the Stromberg carbs and set it at 2 1/2 lbs. This prevents flooding from too much pressure on the needle seat assembly.
When you're performing your Spring tune up, be sure you tighten the screws that hold the fuel pump together, since they relax with age. Also check the glass bowl bail to make sure it's tight. As these relax, they will suck air instead of fuel and cause you to stall on a hot day. I recommend you check them in the Spring and again before you take a long cross country trip
Fuel Pressure Regulating
Fuel pressure is very critical to these early carburetors. Early Ford Motor Company shop bulletins and manuals state that the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove and Stromberg carburetors are all designed to operate at 2 1/2 psi. Yet the fuel pump deliver pressure specification is 3 1/2 psi! I don't understand the thinking behind this.
The Strombergs are very sensitive to fuel pressure because of the float/needle valve design. It just doesn't exert enough pressure to overcome the fuel pressure. They have a tendency to flood when fuel pressure is in the neighborhood of 3 1/2 lbs.
On these carburetors I install a pressure regulator and set it at 2 1/2 psi. This regulator must be physically located between the fuel pump and carburetor since the fuel pump is putting out 3 1/2 psi. If you're entering a classic car for judging, then carry a spare fuel line without the regulator and replace when you get to the meet.
Stromberg Carburetors
Applications:
• 48's had a 1.031-inch venturi and are rated at 175 cfm. They were stock in 1934 and 1935 V-8s with 221 cubic inches. Main jets were 48 at sea level.
• 81's had a 0.812-inch venturi and are rated at 135 cfm. They were stock in 1937 and 1938 V-8 60's.
• 97's had a 0.969" venturi and are rated at 150 cfm. They were stock on 1936 and 1937 V-8s with 221 cubic inches. Main jets were 45 and power valves were #65 at sea level.
• L's had a 1.000-inch venturi and are rated at 160 cfm. They came on 1936 and 1937 Lincoln V- 12s.
The Stromberg carburetor is the most popular and the most plentiful at this time and they are getting fairly scarce.
All of the mentioned carburetors are quite similar and the following can be interpolated for your specific application.
Main metering jet numbers indicate the diameter of the hole in thousandths. Hence, a 46 jet has a 0.046-inch diameter hole. At sea level these carburetors came with #45 jets.
For carburetors in Denver, I use a #43 jet (0.043 - inch in diameter) for starters. These jets are drilled straight through. Carburetors manufactured beginning in the 1960's have jets with a venturi in the middle and shouldn't be drilled.
Since the early carburetors are drilled straight through, they can be soldered shut and re-drilled. The solder is softer than the brass, and the jets will probably have to be re-soldered and drilled about every 15,000 miles or so.
The power valve used to be called the "high speed jet." The Stromberg power valve is all brass and does not have a vacuum diaphragm like the Holley/Ford/Chandler Grove carburetors do.
The power valve has one small hole drilled in the side for fuel flow. Unlike the main jets, the numbers on a Stromberg power valve are NOT the diameter of the hole. They refer to the numbered drill used to drill the hole. (Numbered drills are backward: the larger the number, the smaller the drill bit.) These carburetors come with a #65 drill (0.0320" diameter) for starters. Soldering these and re-drilling, like the main jets, is the way to go since power valves are getting impossible to find.
Below are the numbered drill bits and their diameters:
#61 = 0.0390-inch #62 = 0.0380-inch
#63 = 0.0370-inch #64 = 0.0360-inch
#65 = 0.0350-inch #66 = 0.0330-inch
#67 = 0.0320-inch #68 = 0.0310-inch
#69 = 0.0292-inch #70 = 0.0280-inch
#71 = 0.0260-inch #72 = 0.0250-inch
The dry float level setting is 5/16-inch plus or minus 1/32-inch measured without a gasket. This is close enough to start the engine, but the floats should be set with the engine running so the fuel level is 15/32-inch, plus or minus 1/32-inch, from the top of the fuel bowl without a gasket.
Be careful while making the run setting since raising the float will cause fuel to overflow onto the engine. With this wet setting, there should be no problem with gas soaking through the float bowl gasket and running down the outside of the carburetor.
With the close proximity of the sparking generator commutator, I prefer my carbs stay dry on the outside - no guts nor faith in my fire extinguisher I guess.
On these carbs, the idle discharge circuit supplies the fuel from idle to about 25 mph. The main jet circuit operates between 25 and 70 mph. Above about 70 mph, the power valve cuts in.
The idle screws are different appearing from Holley carbs, although I've seen Holley screws in Strombergs. Each has a different taper angle and they are not interchangeable, even though the threads are the same. The needle taper extends right up the threads on Strombergs. On Holley carbs, the needle taper stops short of the threads.
Many, but not all, Stromberg idle screws have the screw driver slot cut only halfway across , whereas the Ford / Holley/Chandler Grove idle screws all have their screwdriver slots cut all the way across.
Incidentally, the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs are all basically the same carbs, but manufactured by different companies.
I prefer Strombergs over the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs for a few reasons, especially on multi-carburetor installations.
One reason is the throttle base. The Stromberg throttle base seems to have better machine work on the throttle valves and the throttle bores, in that they don't stick when coming off idle at a stop light. This makes for smooth throttle openings and in addition they return to idle without sticking.
Another reason is that you can access the three body to base throttle screws from the top. This allows you to change jets without upsetting the throttle linkage adjustment.
A third advantage, in my opinion, is the Stromberg 's power circuit. It uses mechanically operated brass power valves instead of vacuum operated diaphragm power valves as found in the Ford/Holley/Chandler Grove carbs.
When using multiple carburetors the manifold vacuum is usually low, which contributes to premature opening of the vacuum controlled power valve. It's not uncommon to find these valve s opening with less than adequate throttle applications, since almost any drop in vacuum is enough to make them operate.
As can be envisioned, this leads to a rich condition when it's not needed. It is impossible to compensate for this over rich condition by reducing the main jets, because when these vacuum power valves open it's the same as increasing the main jet size 10 whole numbers - no wonder they always run rich!
The Stromberg's mechanical power valve operates mechanically and is relatively unaffected by low vacuum. This eliminates the over rich conditions caused by the power valve opening too soon, or when it's not needed. Also, the Stromberg power valves can be drilled to suit your needs and driving habits, whereas the vacuum type cannot since they are sized during manufacturing.

[Rocky Phillips]

I have both the Intakes tacked together and all the carb pieces sorted out, still a long way to go but making progress.

[Rocky Phillips]

1/16/2011
Today was a full day of progress, I made a temporary sand blast cabinet to clean the outside of my carbs then changed over to Baking Soda to clean the insides...............Don't Laugh:D


I'm satisfied with the results (you can see the difference when looking at earlier pics) and proceeded to straighten the tops and check all passeges for blockage. It's time to contact Uncle Max for parts now.

While I was doing this Lee went ahead and started Tig'n the intakes together , no warpage and they still fit;)

This week I'll get the material for the lifter galley and distributor boss.
The decisions been made! I decided to use a trans after spending some money on my wifes Dragster and not having much to spend on the Twin and it came together real well. I have many Ford 3 speeds and one is a Van trans with an extremely short tailshaft so I machined the Brg Retainer down to the GM bellhousing...............

Happened to have a piece of Bronze material and made a pilot bushing that fits the larger opening of the 350 crank to have the bushing close enough for the Ford input to reach........


And "WALA" Ford 3 speed to Chevy bellhousing in an afternoon.

Now I have to find another T150 Trans top as I recently sold the last one I had, a rear yoke for the trans which I'll convert to a slip yoke and I can start the frame fab.
The finer points and parts to put all the big pieces together are going to be the death of me:D After deciding to run the trans I went to Turners Auto Wrecking and found a slip yoke to replace the fixed yoke on the trans, with the trans and the rear end solid, the yoke being within 6" of the trans bearing I think it will be fine. With that out of the way I picked up some "Freeze Plug" for the shifter and speedo holes and had to get a seal for the combo which on all other fixed tail housings is the same EXCEPT the one I'm using........no problem for SAIS Brg in Dos Palos.
With all of that out of the way I put her all together and ended up with a pretty short combo, now I'm waiting on a Top Loader T150 shifter for it and it will be done!


Next I'll finish the Bellhousing, finish the engine plate and put the whole thing on the jig. Rocky
I apprciate the concern about the u-joint but I'm confident it (solid u-joint) will be OK and it will have a shield over it. I mocked up the drive assembly for a look and now have to blow it all apart, make an alignment tool for the engine to rearend alignment then hopefully we'll be on to building a roller!

2/5/2011
After blasting the carbs (sand on the out side and soda on the inside), painting the bases and recieving the parts from Uncle Max I put them together tonight. The 2 center carbs are 48's and don't have a winter setting and still need to adjust a couple things but all looks good!


2/14/2011
What a great day is was, sun was out and it inspired me to make the jig decision I've been putting off. Originally I thought I was going to use 3x2 tube main rails but have since changed my mind and decided on RD tube. With 2, 10' pcs of 3x2" .120 wall on hand (and the legs I cut off) I decided against the 12" I beam jig I have and built this one for the Twin, allowing me to get the engines on and off with a cherry picker. I still need to mark & drill the engine plate and trim it up then we'll start building!


The building has begun! I using 1 3/4" tubing to give the car the look of 1959 and bent a large radius roll bar hoop with my beast of a bender, for the "Bed Post bend" look of the era. My camera bat's went dead but here is what I got.......

I'm trying to keep the car & engine low, wanted alot of engine "dump" but with the 28" tires I didn't get any. I'm happy though and the car will have full length frame rails on both sides, I had planned on welding them to each side of the engine plate but found a sweet spot that gets by the starter and belhousing..........


The EMT is for mock-up, I'm using .120 wall mild steel.
After bending the shouder hoop I changed my mind and decided to use the hoop for the Roll Bar. Many use a hoop for the upper and lower rails but I decided instead of splicing the hoop into the rails (2 splices) I'll just splice the rails together at the center upright point. So after bending ea end of the rails with the beast, I spliced them with an 1 1/2" stub inside that will be plug welded........


I'm still deciding on what the Roll Bar design will be, I'm leaning toward a 4 point (2 rear uprights attached to the main hoop, I dunno but I'll get the batteries charged and have more photos sunday!
Although not the design of Roll Bar I'll be using I like the look of the large radius Hoop. What a BadA$$ Roadser!

here's some more shots of progress and my straight axle I got down off the wall today...........

There will be 2 rear supports as soon as I get more material.......

Stuck the T150 top on to check for clearence and found I'll have to fab a shifter link as the stock shifter runs directly into the top rail, o-well.......

2/21/2011
Originally the motorplate was going to be part of the frame (welded) but I found an area I could get the tubing past the starter so now I can remove both or an individual engine. [/SIZE]
I made some progress today and got the rear section all sized up and tac'd, the easy part, the little things will kill ya:D It starting to look more like a '62 or 3 with the roll cage I built, but I'm pretty happy.




Here is how the top bar attaches to the engine, it does trap the bellhousing making it impossible to get it out without moving the engines forward but I really didn't want to cut the bellhousing more than I have.

My goal is to have it rolling by the March Meet, we'll see.

[Rocky Phillips]

WOW, reliving the build is so much Fun, I hope your enjoying it as much as I am.
I'm currently entered in the Always a Champion sweepstakes where winners are determined by online votes. With plans to go to the HAMB Drags in Mokan, then up to Billetproof's event in Toutle, WA. already in place the Sweepstakes will help me fullfill a dream of going to more Tracks than planned, a tour if you will!
I have submitted my video and it can be seen at contest.alwaysachampion.com/contests/showentry/1007448 ;. The voting starts Jan 2nd thru Feb 5th and voters are allowed to vote once a day per IP address. Check it out today and I hope you'll consider voting for me.
Thank You, Rocky Phillips

[Rocky Phillips]

A sample of a Photo Shoot I was invited to...........Thank Nick and John for turnig the Wilson lights on!

[lancer]

Rocky, where was that photoshoot done?

[Rocky Phillips]

Jan 2, 2012 2:13:29 GMT -5 lancer said:

Rocky, where was that photoshoot done?

Downtown Fresno on Fulton and T....To.....Tu.... Tuallomme.... I lucky to pronounce it let alone spell it! ;D

[lancer]

Was the shoot for anything specific or just for fun? Would love to see how the photos came out. Night shoots can be real tricky but if done right can be pretty spectacular.